Emollients: How They Soften, Hydrate, and Protect the Skin

Emollients are lipid-rich substances that fill gaps between corneocytes (dead skin cells) in the stratum corneum, restoring the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Mechanisms

• Occlusion: Petrolatum, mineral oil, dimethicone – form hydrophobic film.
• Humectancy: Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea – attract water into stratum corneum.
• Physiologic lipids: Ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids – replace deficient barrier components.

Common Classes

• Oils: jojoba, squalane, sunflower, coconut.
• Butters: shea, cocoa, mango.
• Waxes: beeswax, carnauba.
• Semi-occlusives: lanolin, petrolatum.
• Humectants: glycerin, HA, panthenol.

Clinical Use

First-line for atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, xerosis, contact dermatitis. Apply to damp skin within 3 min of bathing for maximal hydration. Choose formulation (ointment > cream > lotion) based on severity and patient preference.